Biobased Material
Biobased materials are derived from renewable biological sources, such as plants, algae, and microorganisms, making them an essential component of sustainable fashion practices. Unlike conventional synthetic materials, biobased materials have the potential to significantly reduce the environmental footprint of fashion products. The sustainability of these materials depends on various factors, including their ability to be recycled, the methods of production, and their capacity to rejuvenate or restore clothing over time. In the context of fashion, biobased materials are often evaluated based on their circularity, which refers to the ability of these materials to either decompose naturally within the ecosystem or be easily recycled and reused. Circular biobased materials contribute to the reduction of waste and pollution by closing the loop in the material lifecycle, ultimately returning to the earth or being repurposed without generating harmful byproducts.
One of the most promising aspects of biobased materials is their role in biorejuvenation, a process where materials can naturally regenerate or be enhanced to extend the lifespan of clothing. This innovation allows for the restoration of worn or damaged garments, reducing the need for constant replacement and thereby supporting a more sustainable fashion industry. Coatings made from biobased materials can rejuvenate textiles, improving their durability, functionality, and aesthetic appeal.
The adoption of biobased materials also presents an opportunity for brands and designers to contribute to environmental stewardship. By selecting materials that are sustainably sourced and capable of being reintroduced into the natural environment, the fashion industry can mitigate its impact on the planet. Additionally, the use of biobased materials aligns with consumer demand for eco-friendly and ethically produced fashion products.
Case studies
Ananas Anam – Piñatex and Piñayarn pineapple-leaf textiles
Ananas Anam develops Piñatex® and Piñayarn®, textiles made from fibres extracted from pineapple leaf agricultural residues. By valorising a by-product stream and replacing part of conventional leather and synthetic fibres with plant-derived materials, these fabrics reduce pressure on land and resource use while enabling lower-impact footwear, accessories, and apparel.
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Bast Fibre Technologies – Bast-based natural fibres for nonwovens and textiles
Bast Fibre Technologies (BFT) engineers speciality fibres from bast plants such as hemp and flax for use in nonwovens and textile applications. Their fibres are derived from renewable crops, designed to be compostable, and positioned as drop-in replacements for fossil-based synthetics in wipes and hygiene products, supporting biobased material substitution and end-of-life biodegradability.
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Modern Meadow – Biofabricated leather-like materials (Zoa™ platform)
Modern Meadow uses fermentation to produce collagen and other biofabricated building blocks that can be assembled into leather-like materials under the Zoa™ platform. These animal-free, tunable materials are designed to reduce reliance on livestock-based leather and conventional plastics, offering a route to engineered, bio-based textiles with lower environmental footprints.
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Ecoalf – Bio-based and recycled textile innovations
Ecoalf is a Spanish fashion brand whose innovation programme integrates recycled and bio-based feedstocks, including algae-based yarns and other renewable fibres, into outerwear, footwear, and accessories. By combining recycled ocean and post-consumer plastics with emerging bio-based materials, Ecoalf prototypes scalable material mixes that move collections towards reduced fossil dependence and improved circularity.
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Pangaia – FLWRDWN® and bio-based insulation systems
Pangaia’s FLWRDWN® insulation replaces conventional down and many synthetic fills with a composite based on wildflowers and biobased binders, designed to be lightweight, warm, and with a reduced animal and fossil footprint. Positioned within a broader portfolio of plant- and bio-based textiles, FLWRDWN® illustrates how fashion insulation can be reimagined using renewable inputs while targeting recyclability and biodegradability.
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References
D’Itria, E., & Colombi, C. (2022). Biobased innovation as a fashion and textile design must: A European perspective. Sustainability, 14(1), 570. https://doi.org/10.3390/su14010570
Hildebrandt, J., Thrän, D., & Bezama, A. (2021). The circularity of potential bio-textile production routes: Comparing life cycle impacts of bio-based materials used within the manufacturing of selected leather substitutes. Journal of Cleaner Production, 287, 125470. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.125470
Nayak, R., Kannangara, M., Hossen, J., Hadadi, A., & Ding, L. (2024). Potential of bacterial cellulose for sustainable fashion and textile applications: A review. Journal of Materials Science, 59(12), 6685–6710. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10853-024-09577-6
Rognoli, V., Pizzocaro, S., & Ayala-Garcia, C. (2022). Materials biography as a tool for designers’ exploration of bio-based and bio-fabricated materials for the sustainable fashion industry. Sustainability: Science, Practice and Policy, 18(1), 749–772. https://doi.org/10.1080/15487733.2022.2124740
Liu, R., Zhu, Y., Jiang, H., & Zhang, X. (2024). Engineered, environmentally friendly leather-like bio-based materials. Trends in Biotechnology. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tibtech.2024.11.006